La Libertad is Freedom at the Beach

La Libertad provides the perfect day trip from the El Salvadorian capital, San Salvador.  That being said, an emphasis should be put on "Day".  Before dark the port is safe, friendly and offers the tourist a great deal of sightseeing in a very condensed area.

When the sun goes down the beach city attracts a growing number of the notorious MS-13 gang members to enjoy its’ night life.

La Libertad lies 30 miles southwest from San Salvador, and 15 miles from the Cuscatian International Airport.  It can be accessed by car, taxi or bus within an hour from either point of origin.  Don’t fear renting a vehicle as the roads in El Salvador are kept in wonderful repair.  All highways are marked and driving is easy.  However, unlike the U.S. there is little warning given prior to any given turn. 

Regardless of your means of arrival, the destination target should be the city center or “Centro”.  All roads into La Libertad seem to end at the port.  Parking is available for free along the streets. 
However, guarded lots are available for a couple of American dollars which is reasonable for the peace of mind.  

The waterfront is alive with activity and stretches for about a half a mile.  An open air market exists on the south side of the port.  Vendors hawk their wares, encouraging shoppers to purchase their trinkets over the exact replicas of their competitors across the aisle.  T-shirts, hammock, shells and various types of bracelets and necklaces are available.  In addition to souvenirs, patrons can purchase fruit, vegetables and a wide assortment of candies.  On the edge of the market place lies a restaurant.  Furnished with white plastic chairs and tables it is truly an eating establishment for the people.  Tantalizing cups of ceviche is the house specialty, however an appetizer of fried fish may be the safer choice.  It too is excellent, and most likely slept in the ocean the night before.  Either dish is around $2.00, add a coke or bottle of beer to wash it down with for an extra $1.00.

Next, venture to the concrete pier that stretches out into the ocean.  The first half of the wharf is comprised of a fish market.  Booth after booth of fresh seafood line both sides as you move through and towards the end of the dock.  From Yellow Tail Tuna to Albacore, every fish from the local waters is displayed on a bed of ice and available for immediate purchase.   Women adorned in colorful aprons sit patiently behind their catch waiting to negotiate their best price.

At the end of the pier is a boat lift.  Not content to haul their fish up to the 40 foot high platform, the fisherman’s boats  are attached to a single cable and actually hoisted out of the sea, until fish, fishermen and boat together come to rest amid the crowd that has gathered to watch and bid on the vessels’ contents.   In the U.S., OSHA would have a heart attack, but in El Salvador nothing seems amiss.

Moving further north along the waterfront, you will see the pride of La Libertad shining through in the image of a newer mall.  Small but growing, the eclectic mix of shops provide the buyer everything from ice cream to prescription glasses.  Nicer restaurants punctuate the establishment.

Abutting the mall is a small open amphitheater.  Several rows of concrete bleachers overlook a stage and a cement basketball court.   This newer construction is obvious progress, however one does feel that the soul of the harbor is being compromised.

At the end of the waterfront are a couple restaurants overlooking the world famous Punta Roca surf spot.   The waves break consistently to the right here and is lauded universally by surf periodicals as one of the top ten breaks around the globe.  Consistent swells of 5-7 seven feet move from a half mile out to crash hard onto the short beach and surf wall.   Like a surfer’s Mecca, wave riders from Australian to Brazil make their pilgrimage to this locale.  Watching these extraordinarily talented men and women is the best entertainment in town.  Throw in a dinner of fresh grilled sea bass, and a couple of the local “Pilsener” cervezas, and you have the perfect end of the perfect day trip!

"180 Degrees South" Film Review

Take one part “ Endless Summer”, a pinch of “The Hobbit - There and Back Again”,  (the animated version), a couple of teaspoons of “Into Thin Air”, throw in a dash of Blue Hawaii, and you have the film “180 Degrees South”.   If this outdoor documentary doesn’t whet your appetite for adventure, then, perhaps you need to check your hunger for life.

Film maker and adventurer, Jeff Johnson ponders the question that many of us do.  What is left to do that hasn’t already been accomplished?  Instead of dwelling on the negative, he determines to recreate a journey made first by Yvon Chounard,  founder of Patagonia and Dave Tompkins   the creator of the North Face.  Like the title of the film, the goal is to head south 180 degrees.  Johnson doesn’t mimic the outdoor pioneers exactly; instead he makes his way to the bottom of the world a bit differently, but by means no less difficult or intriguing. 

Choosing water over a Volkswagen Van and the open road, he hires on as crew on a ship heading south.  A decision he initially regrets due to his propensity towards sea sickness.  Although he later overcomes the nausea, video of him retching, sprawled out on a filthy cot deep in the ship’s bowels is moving.  Feelings not lost on those of us whom has suffered the same fate.  It’s not long before the craft itself is disabled as its mast is broken.

We are rewarded with great surf footage as the crippled vessel arrives at Easter Island for repairs.   Of course a South Pacific surf goddess named Makohe lives and teaches others on the island how to ride the waves.  A hint of a relationship surfaces between her and Jeff, and another person is added to the journey.

Upon arrival in South America, we are introduced to Yvon and Doug.  Over tea, they educate us on times past, and the wanderlust they shared.  Both men now are multi-millionaires many times over.  Yet, they reminisce with fondness over days past that were void of money, but bursting with adrenaline. Businessmen by accident, they are now environmentalists and conservationists by design and intent.   They chose to follow their dreams, living life on their terms.  A thread which plays strongly throughout the documentary.   To say which man returns more towards the preservation of wild lands is a tossup.

The film unintentionally shows the viewer how quickly extreme sports have grown.  While the men are now in their 70’s, the 1960’s was not that long ago.  Developing clothing and equipment to solve the problems of their passions for climbing, surfing and other outdoor sports they in turn inadvertently launched an industry that was nonexistent.

The cinematography of Patagonia is unparalleled.  The story continues with more action.  Two of Jeff’s friends arrive.  One is an accomplished climber, the other an equally adept surfer.   Minus Tompkins and the surf buddy, the others gear up and set out to reach the summit of Mt. Fitzroy.   This last part of the trek is filmed in detail, yet the movie leaves enough time to educate the audience on the eco-abuse going on in this southern continent, as well as around the world.

Without doubt the film takes liberty to editorialize the views of the producers and cast, however the message does not drowned out the entertainment the movie provides.   It is without question one of the best outdoor documentaries to be aired in reason times.

Other great movies and documentaries along the same lines you might enjoy are:

1.        Endless  Summer II

2.       To The Limit

3.       Born Free

4.       Into the Wild

5.       Everest

Three best activities in San Bernardino National Forest

The San Bernardino National Forest has so many ways to enjoy the outdoors it is almost impossible to list them all, let alone write about them.  We have come up with 3 that we believe provide the most mass appeal.  In addition we have included ideas that you can use for both summer and/or winter.  Like all lists, the reader may feel that we have left out the best.  If so, please comment and let us know. 

1. Mountain Climbing & Hiking –
   
   San Bernardino National Forest is home to Southern California’s two highest peaks.  Mount San Gorgonia, or “Ole Grayback” as the locals refer to it is in the northern section of the forest and reaches an elevation of 11,503.  The southern area of the national forest boasts Mount San Jacinto at a lofty 10, 600.  Both mountains are non technical and have well marked hiking trails.  Either summit can be reached in a day by climbers in reasonable condition.  If you are not interested in stepping on top of Southern California, the forest offers hundreds of miles of hiking trails where you can choose to meander through the forest or go on a rigorous trek.

2. Ski or Snow Board  -  Although reserved for winter, several ski resorts are operated within the forests boundaries.  Most popular are:
1. Bear Mountain – Located in the town of Big Bear, this resort offers both ski and snowboarding.  There is an emphasis on snow boarding and offers numerous terrain parks.
2. Snow Summit – Also located in the town of Big Bear, this side of the mountain offers the longest ski runs in Southern California. 
3. Snow Valley Mountain Resort – Just outside of the town of Arrowhead this park gets a lot of action from those who do not want to make the further drive to Big Bear, CA.  It offers a wide variety and levels of runs for both skiing and snowboarding

3. Fishing – The National Forest has an abundance of fishing opportunities.         
1. Lake and Pond Fishing –
   
   Try your luck in catching native California fish.  Rainbow trout, bass, bluegill and catfish are some of the species that you may find on your hook.  The sport can be enjoyed from the shore or if you prefer many of the lakes offer boating as well. 
2. River and Stream Fishing – Although a bit more difficult to reach, river and stream fishing can be exhilarating.  Fly fishing in cold mountain streams can lend itself to the reward of battling a beautiful Rainbow trout.  However, remember if you are camping this is bear country.  Clean your catch and bury the remains at least 300 yards away from your camp site.

Regardless of what activity you choose you are guaranteed to have a wonderful experience.  Spending time in the wilderness that is the San Bernardino National Forest is good for the soul.

Belize Speaks English!

Central America provides the traveler with an astonishing array of adventure and beauty.  From breath taking vistas a top its many volcanoes, to its’ isolated beaches sandwiched between the Caribbean and Pacific Oceans.  From El Salvador to Panama, the region beckons for exploration, investigation and enjoyment

However, one problem occurs for most U.S. tourists.  That problem is the language.  Better defined,  is the lack of our ability to converse in Spanish.  This problem steals from the experience. Not only does it isolate us from the normal day to day conversations of the public, but it also adds to our frustration in everything from renting a car to ordering food.   Making the inhabitants of Central America seem alien and difficult because of our inability to communicate with them.

One country is different.  Belize.   Perched at the north east corner of Central America, the official language of Belize is English!   Once an English Colony, British Honduras became an independent nation in 1981.  The country changed its name to Belize, but maintained English as the language of choice.   The historic ties to Jamaica are heard in the rhythms and delivery of the natives’ speech.   

Belize is a small country, rectangular in shape.  One can drive from the east coast to the western border in a couple of hours.  Driving the length of the country takes longer due to the increased distance and the decreased maintenance of the highways.

As spectacular as the country is, like all nations, it’s the people that make it special.  Belize is certainly no exception.  Not only is the local population open and cheerful, but they possess a seemingly genuine interest is communicating.  At a restaurant in Belize City, my waitress not only served me, but then sat down and entered into a conversation with me over dinner.  

Another time, the man that was serving as my guide into the rain forest was as informative about local politics as he was on Howler Monkeys.  I learned of his views, his family, his childhood, etc.  In general I learned about Belize as I learned about him.  

Beside the enjoyment factor, safety also comes along with a common language.  Warnings, written and verbal take on more meaning with one can understand and realistically determine the risk.  One lunch time placard advertised a “Cow Foot” soup special.  Perhaps I may have missed out on a local culinary specialty, but by understanding what I was to be ingesting helped me make an alternative selection more to my liking.

Belize, like all of Central America is a land of great scenery and history.  Yet it alone provides the non Spanish speaking traveler the opportunity to really delve into the culture.  The culture communicated to you by, guides, waitresses, taxi drivers and more.  The past and current Belize comes alive as it is told to you by the countries most valuable commodity of all, its people.

Belize Zoo - Lions and Tigers and Bears, "Oh No!"

 

If you are looking for cages filled with animals from Africa, Asia or the Antarctica, you had better reset your course for San Diego.    However, if you find yourself in Belize I would encourage you to seek out the Belize Zoo.  It advertises itself as the “Best Little Zoo in the World”.  Whether that’s true or not, the claim is certainly not without merit.

Located just north of Belize City, the facility is easy accessible.  Housed within the confines of a rain forest, it’s easy for the visitor to feel like they are on an expedition.  The grounds span across 29 acres encased under the tropical canopy.  Well groomed dirt paths lead you to the ticket office where once a ticket is purchased you are allowed to enter into the local menagerie.

Exotic animals abound, over a 150 in total, all indigenous to Belize.    Brightly colored reptiles and amphibians are showcased along with their more camouflaged kin.   Blue frogs and red hued snakes lurk silently behind glass, while crocodiles lay almost lifeless in pools of water.  Information is given to the viewer that new species are still being discovered annually.

With 543 species of birds living in Belize the zoo only houses a small sample of its population.  For me the giant black vulture was memorable, and who can visit a jungle without thinking of the toucan.  

As for the mammals, the large cats are definitely must sees.  Ocelots to jaguars are showcased.  I learned that a black panther was just the latter with a pigmentation disorder.  Tapirs and Howler monkeys may be less dangerous, but no less exotic.  It’s quickly apparent on how close you can actually get to the animals.  Although secure, tourists’ views are not hampered by moats or other large separation obstacles.

There are several paths that you can follow, all wind and meander throughout the establishment.  It is impossible to get lost, but it is easy to pass by exhibits if you are not careful.  Maps are provided and I would strongly encourage everyone to take advantage of them. 

Although it is easy enough to view the zoo in one day, lodging is available at the park.  Three types of hospitality are offered.  The top, a single cabin priced at $84 dollars, $60 dollars will get you a mid level cabana, and for those on a budget, dormitory housing is available for just over $30 a night.

The zoo provides a glimpse into the animals and fauna that abound in Belize.  Arguments can be made for or against the morality of such establishments.  However, here in the dense jungles of Central America, it would be virtually impossible to spot even one of these secretive, illusive animals.  In its favor, the zoo provides education and exhibits on the importance of conservation.  A central theme is that if we were all more attentive and practiced better conservation methods, perhaps zoos would not be necessary.

Zonkeys – Uniquely Tijuana

Like most border towns, Tijuana is not reflective of Mexico as a whole.  It is a city full of window dressing, of hawkers and tourist attractions.  The once quaint town is a hodgepodge of immigrants and transplants drawn to the city for work and the promise of a better life.  Spurred by the anemic Mexican economy and an influx of maquidoras, it is a region that’s population has exploded in recent years and now totals over 1.7 million. What little was left of its innocence was destroyed by the recent drug cartel wars.

Add to its problems tighter security and longer wait times to re-cross the border in to the U.S. and Tijuana’s tourism industry has slowed to a trickle. 

Yet the people try.  Revolution Boulevard is sparsely populated compared to years past. Yet it is still home to great drink specials, counterfeit watches and pharmacies.  And yes, although the herd has been culled, “Mexican Zebras”.

The one constant in Tijuana tourism for the past 60 plus years are the “Zonkeys”.  From a far the striped animals do appear to be zebras.  However, in actuality they are donkeys with black stripes painted on them.  These docile animals stand along the famed boulevard for hours.   Harnessed to a wagon they wait patiently for visiting tourists to climb aboard, don brightly colored sombreros and have their picture taken.  It is as clique as any tourist attraction in the world.

No one can say for certain, but it is believed the tradition of painting the animals derived out of necessity.  Since donkeys’ hair is light colored they often looked faded in tourists’ photographs.  Until one day one of the handlers decided to add stripes to his animal.  He figured it would show up better in that Kodak moment.   One wonders if he knew what impact it would have on future generations for man and beast alike.

With the Baja turf war among cartels waning, it is anticipated tourism will increase this year.  In a city that has so much to offer it is bound to lure visitors from across the border. 

And for those striding down Revolution the zonkeys will be waiting, patient, striped and uniquely Tijuana. 

Ron Dawn a Corn Island Specialty

We first heard about Ron Dawn at the Miami International airport gift shop.  Like all secrets, it was passed to us from a most unexpected source.  As luck would have it the woman at the check out counter was from Nicaragua.  When we told her we were heading to the Corn Islands off the country’s eastern coast.  Her eye grew wide and she exclaimed, “You must try the Ron Dawn.  It is so good, do not leave without trying some”.

As our plane approached the beautiful Caribbean island all thoughts were lost on our first sign of the land’s spectacular beauty.  A sea of green rain forest floated in a turquoise ocean bordered by white sandy beaches.

Tired from the travel, we checked in at our hotel and had lunch.  No mention of Ron Dawn was on the menu.  For dinner we tried a local restaurant with the same result.  The next day we casually mentioned it to our waiter.  “Oh”, he said.  “You want the Ron Dawn”.  It was as much an accusation as it was a question.  When we answered in the affirmative he responded. “Ok, we can prepare it for you.  What time would you like it?”

He explained that the dish takes approximately 4 hours to prepare.  By this time another server appeared and joined the conversation.  When we said we would like it for dinner, she warned us against it.  The Ron Dawn is very rich she said.  You will not want to go to bed on such a full stomach.  We chose not to heed the advice and requested the dish for our evening supper.  Luckily we decided to order just one serving and split the meal.

The dish is large, more food than one person needs.  Like the island it is a collection of what Nicaragua offers all rolled up into one.  Ours came in a light coconut sauce, bordered with boiled plantains, potatoes, frangipanji, red peppers and bananas.  A top of this massive amount of starch was lobster, conk, and one whole fish, head included.  Unfortunately I found the dish to be bland.  We added chili sauce but the starchy vegetables were still too over powering.  The sauce was excellent but the coconut flavor was a mere hint as opposed to a statement.

All in all, the dish was the epitanome of the Corn Islands.  It was raw, ample and undeveloped.  For now it will remain a spoken delicacy, but as the world becomes more aware of it the recipe like the Islands will not remain a secret for long.