"180 Degrees South" Film Review

Take one part “ Endless Summer”, a pinch of “The Hobbit - There and Back Again”,  (the animated version), a couple of teaspoons of “Into Thin Air”, throw in a dash of Blue Hawaii, and you have the film “180 Degrees South”.   If this outdoor documentary doesn’t whet your appetite for adventure, then, perhaps you need to check your hunger for life.

Film maker and adventurer, Jeff Johnson ponders the question that many of us do.  What is left to do that hasn’t already been accomplished?  Instead of dwelling on the negative, he determines to recreate a journey made first by Yvon Chounard,  founder of Patagonia and Dave Tompkins   the creator of the North Face.  Like the title of the film, the goal is to head south 180 degrees.  Johnson doesn’t mimic the outdoor pioneers exactly; instead he makes his way to the bottom of the world a bit differently, but by means no less difficult or intriguing. 

Choosing water over a Volkswagen Van and the open road, he hires on as crew on a ship heading south.  A decision he initially regrets due to his propensity towards sea sickness.  Although he later overcomes the nausea, video of him retching, sprawled out on a filthy cot deep in the ship’s bowels is moving.  Feelings not lost on those of us whom has suffered the same fate.  It’s not long before the craft itself is disabled as its mast is broken.

We are rewarded with great surf footage as the crippled vessel arrives at Easter Island for repairs.   Of course a South Pacific surf goddess named Makohe lives and teaches others on the island how to ride the waves.  A hint of a relationship surfaces between her and Jeff, and another person is added to the journey.

Upon arrival in South America, we are introduced to Yvon and Doug.  Over tea, they educate us on times past, and the wanderlust they shared.  Both men now are multi-millionaires many times over.  Yet, they reminisce with fondness over days past that were void of money, but bursting with adrenaline. Businessmen by accident, they are now environmentalists and conservationists by design and intent.   They chose to follow their dreams, living life on their terms.  A thread which plays strongly throughout the documentary.   To say which man returns more towards the preservation of wild lands is a tossup.

The film unintentionally shows the viewer how quickly extreme sports have grown.  While the men are now in their 70’s, the 1960’s was not that long ago.  Developing clothing and equipment to solve the problems of their passions for climbing, surfing and other outdoor sports they in turn inadvertently launched an industry that was nonexistent.

The cinematography of Patagonia is unparalleled.  The story continues with more action.  Two of Jeff’s friends arrive.  One is an accomplished climber, the other an equally adept surfer.   Minus Tompkins and the surf buddy, the others gear up and set out to reach the summit of Mt. Fitzroy.   This last part of the trek is filmed in detail, yet the movie leaves enough time to educate the audience on the eco-abuse going on in this southern continent, as well as around the world.

Without doubt the film takes liberty to editorialize the views of the producers and cast, however the message does not drowned out the entertainment the movie provides.   It is without question one of the best outdoor documentaries to be aired in reason times.

Other great movies and documentaries along the same lines you might enjoy are:

1.        Endless  Summer II

2.       To The Limit

3.       Born Free

4.       Into the Wild

5.       Everest

Three best activities in San Bernardino National Forest

The San Bernardino National Forest has so many ways to enjoy the outdoors it is almost impossible to list them all, let alone write about them.  We have come up with 3 that we believe provide the most mass appeal.  In addition we have included ideas that you can use for both summer and/or winter.  Like all lists, the reader may feel that we have left out the best.  If so, please comment and let us know. 

1. Mountain Climbing & Hiking –
   
   San Bernardino National Forest is home to Southern California’s two highest peaks.  Mount San Gorgonia, or “Ole Grayback” as the locals refer to it is in the northern section of the forest and reaches an elevation of 11,503.  The southern area of the national forest boasts Mount San Jacinto at a lofty 10, 600.  Both mountains are non technical and have well marked hiking trails.  Either summit can be reached in a day by climbers in reasonable condition.  If you are not interested in stepping on top of Southern California, the forest offers hundreds of miles of hiking trails where you can choose to meander through the forest or go on a rigorous trek.

2. Ski or Snow Board  -  Although reserved for winter, several ski resorts are operated within the forests boundaries.  Most popular are:
1. Bear Mountain – Located in the town of Big Bear, this resort offers both ski and snowboarding.  There is an emphasis on snow boarding and offers numerous terrain parks.
2. Snow Summit – Also located in the town of Big Bear, this side of the mountain offers the longest ski runs in Southern California. 
3. Snow Valley Mountain Resort – Just outside of the town of Arrowhead this park gets a lot of action from those who do not want to make the further drive to Big Bear, CA.  It offers a wide variety and levels of runs for both skiing and snowboarding

3. Fishing – The National Forest has an abundance of fishing opportunities.         
1. Lake and Pond Fishing –
   
   Try your luck in catching native California fish.  Rainbow trout, bass, bluegill and catfish are some of the species that you may find on your hook.  The sport can be enjoyed from the shore or if you prefer many of the lakes offer boating as well. 
2. River and Stream Fishing – Although a bit more difficult to reach, river and stream fishing can be exhilarating.  Fly fishing in cold mountain streams can lend itself to the reward of battling a beautiful Rainbow trout.  However, remember if you are camping this is bear country.  Clean your catch and bury the remains at least 300 yards away from your camp site.

Regardless of what activity you choose you are guaranteed to have a wonderful experience.  Spending time in the wilderness that is the San Bernardino National Forest is good for the soul.

Belize Speaks English!

Central America provides the traveler with an astonishing array of adventure and beauty.  From breath taking vistas a top its many volcanoes, to its’ isolated beaches sandwiched between the Caribbean and Pacific Oceans.  From El Salvador to Panama, the region beckons for exploration, investigation and enjoyment

However, one problem occurs for most U.S. tourists.  That problem is the language.  Better defined,  is the lack of our ability to converse in Spanish.  This problem steals from the experience. Not only does it isolate us from the normal day to day conversations of the public, but it also adds to our frustration in everything from renting a car to ordering food.   Making the inhabitants of Central America seem alien and difficult because of our inability to communicate with them.

One country is different.  Belize.   Perched at the north east corner of Central America, the official language of Belize is English!   Once an English Colony, British Honduras became an independent nation in 1981.  The country changed its name to Belize, but maintained English as the language of choice.   The historic ties to Jamaica are heard in the rhythms and delivery of the natives’ speech.   

Belize is a small country, rectangular in shape.  One can drive from the east coast to the western border in a couple of hours.  Driving the length of the country takes longer due to the increased distance and the decreased maintenance of the highways.

As spectacular as the country is, like all nations, it’s the people that make it special.  Belize is certainly no exception.  Not only is the local population open and cheerful, but they possess a seemingly genuine interest is communicating.  At a restaurant in Belize City, my waitress not only served me, but then sat down and entered into a conversation with me over dinner.  

Another time, the man that was serving as my guide into the rain forest was as informative about local politics as he was on Howler Monkeys.  I learned of his views, his family, his childhood, etc.  In general I learned about Belize as I learned about him.  

Beside the enjoyment factor, safety also comes along with a common language.  Warnings, written and verbal take on more meaning with one can understand and realistically determine the risk.  One lunch time placard advertised a “Cow Foot” soup special.  Perhaps I may have missed out on a local culinary specialty, but by understanding what I was to be ingesting helped me make an alternative selection more to my liking.

Belize, like all of Central America is a land of great scenery and history.  Yet it alone provides the non Spanish speaking traveler the opportunity to really delve into the culture.  The culture communicated to you by, guides, waitresses, taxi drivers and more.  The past and current Belize comes alive as it is told to you by the countries most valuable commodity of all, its people.

Belize Zoo - Lions and Tigers and Bears, "Oh No!"

 

If you are looking for cages filled with animals from Africa, Asia or the Antarctica, you had better reset your course for San Diego.    However, if you find yourself in Belize I would encourage you to seek out the Belize Zoo.  It advertises itself as the “Best Little Zoo in the World”.  Whether that’s true or not, the claim is certainly not without merit.

Located just north of Belize City, the facility is easy accessible.  Housed within the confines of a rain forest, it’s easy for the visitor to feel like they are on an expedition.  The grounds span across 29 acres encased under the tropical canopy.  Well groomed dirt paths lead you to the ticket office where once a ticket is purchased you are allowed to enter into the local menagerie.

Exotic animals abound, over a 150 in total, all indigenous to Belize.    Brightly colored reptiles and amphibians are showcased along with their more camouflaged kin.   Blue frogs and red hued snakes lurk silently behind glass, while crocodiles lay almost lifeless in pools of water.  Information is given to the viewer that new species are still being discovered annually.

With 543 species of birds living in Belize the zoo only houses a small sample of its population.  For me the giant black vulture was memorable, and who can visit a jungle without thinking of the toucan.  

As for the mammals, the large cats are definitely must sees.  Ocelots to jaguars are showcased.  I learned that a black panther was just the latter with a pigmentation disorder.  Tapirs and Howler monkeys may be less dangerous, but no less exotic.  It’s quickly apparent on how close you can actually get to the animals.  Although secure, tourists’ views are not hampered by moats or other large separation obstacles.

There are several paths that you can follow, all wind and meander throughout the establishment.  It is impossible to get lost, but it is easy to pass by exhibits if you are not careful.  Maps are provided and I would strongly encourage everyone to take advantage of them. 

Although it is easy enough to view the zoo in one day, lodging is available at the park.  Three types of hospitality are offered.  The top, a single cabin priced at $84 dollars, $60 dollars will get you a mid level cabana, and for those on a budget, dormitory housing is available for just over $30 a night.

The zoo provides a glimpse into the animals and fauna that abound in Belize.  Arguments can be made for or against the morality of such establishments.  However, here in the dense jungles of Central America, it would be virtually impossible to spot even one of these secretive, illusive animals.  In its favor, the zoo provides education and exhibits on the importance of conservation.  A central theme is that if we were all more attentive and practiced better conservation methods, perhaps zoos would not be necessary.

Zonkeys – Uniquely Tijuana

Like most border towns, Tijuana is not reflective of Mexico as a whole.  It is a city full of window dressing, of hawkers and tourist attractions.  The once quaint town is a hodgepodge of immigrants and transplants drawn to the city for work and the promise of a better life.  Spurred by the anemic Mexican economy and an influx of maquidoras, it is a region that’s population has exploded in recent years and now totals over 1.7 million. What little was left of its innocence was destroyed by the recent drug cartel wars.

Add to its problems tighter security and longer wait times to re-cross the border in to the U.S. and Tijuana’s tourism industry has slowed to a trickle. 

Yet the people try.  Revolution Boulevard is sparsely populated compared to years past. Yet it is still home to great drink specials, counterfeit watches and pharmacies.  And yes, although the herd has been culled, “Mexican Zebras”.

The one constant in Tijuana tourism for the past 60 plus years are the “Zonkeys”.  From a far the striped animals do appear to be zebras.  However, in actuality they are donkeys with black stripes painted on them.  These docile animals stand along the famed boulevard for hours.   Harnessed to a wagon they wait patiently for visiting tourists to climb aboard, don brightly colored sombreros and have their picture taken.  It is as clique as any tourist attraction in the world.

No one can say for certain, but it is believed the tradition of painting the animals derived out of necessity.  Since donkeys’ hair is light colored they often looked faded in tourists’ photographs.  Until one day one of the handlers decided to add stripes to his animal.  He figured it would show up better in that Kodak moment.   One wonders if he knew what impact it would have on future generations for man and beast alike.

With the Baja turf war among cartels waning, it is anticipated tourism will increase this year.  In a city that has so much to offer it is bound to lure visitors from across the border. 

And for those striding down Revolution the zonkeys will be waiting, patient, striped and uniquely Tijuana. 

Ron Dawn a Corn Island Specialty

We first heard about Ron Dawn at the Miami International airport gift shop.  Like all secrets, it was passed to us from a most unexpected source.  As luck would have it the woman at the check out counter was from Nicaragua.  When we told her we were heading to the Corn Islands off the country’s eastern coast.  Her eye grew wide and she exclaimed, “You must try the Ron Dawn.  It is so good, do not leave without trying some”.

As our plane approached the beautiful Caribbean island all thoughts were lost on our first sign of the land’s spectacular beauty.  A sea of green rain forest floated in a turquoise ocean bordered by white sandy beaches.

Tired from the travel, we checked in at our hotel and had lunch.  No mention of Ron Dawn was on the menu.  For dinner we tried a local restaurant with the same result.  The next day we casually mentioned it to our waiter.  “Oh”, he said.  “You want the Ron Dawn”.  It was as much an accusation as it was a question.  When we answered in the affirmative he responded. “Ok, we can prepare it for you.  What time would you like it?”

He explained that the dish takes approximately 4 hours to prepare.  By this time another server appeared and joined the conversation.  When we said we would like it for dinner, she warned us against it.  The Ron Dawn is very rich she said.  You will not want to go to bed on such a full stomach.  We chose not to heed the advice and requested the dish for our evening supper.  Luckily we decided to order just one serving and split the meal.

The dish is large, more food than one person needs.  Like the island it is a collection of what Nicaragua offers all rolled up into one.  Ours came in a light coconut sauce, bordered with boiled plantains, potatoes, frangipanji, red peppers and bananas.  A top of this massive amount of starch was lobster, conk, and one whole fish, head included.  Unfortunately I found the dish to be bland.  We added chili sauce but the starchy vegetables were still too over powering.  The sauce was excellent but the coconut flavor was a mere hint as opposed to a statement.

All in all, the dish was the epitanome of the Corn Islands.  It was raw, ample and undeveloped.  For now it will remain a spoken delicacy, but as the world becomes more aware of it the recipe like the Islands will not remain a secret for long.

Toasting the Ghost of Pancho Villa!

No stop in Ensenada, Mexico is complete without a visit to Hussong’s Cantina.  It matters little whether you arrive in the city by car, bus or boat; it seems all roads will eventually lead you to this historic establishment.   Opened first in 1892, many a celebrity has walked through the doorway. Although maybe none more well known in Baja than the infamous Pancho Villa.  It is said that Hussong's was a frequent hangout for the outlaw when he was in the parts.  It was common that he and his banditos would appear seemingly out of nowhere to stop in for a night of drinking and all around merriment.  His drink of choice of course was none other than a glass of tequila with a cerveza chaser. 

Today the bar remains much the same as when it opened.  Save the much needed modern day accommodated restrooms out the rear of the bar.  (When I first visited Hussong’s 30 years ago, the male facilities were little more than a trough.)   The doors are left wide open during the day but the interior is blocked by a wooden partition.  A doorman checks ID’s as the age limit requirement of 18 is tightly enforced.  Once inside the door the décor is circa 1892.   The wooden frame building consists of one rectangular great room.  A long wooden bar runs the length of the tavern on one side, while the rest of the area is filled with tables and chairs.  Almost every inch of space on the walls is adorned with pictures or caricatures of past patrons.  Two long mirrors decorate the wall behind the serving area.  It’s easy to imagine the reflective glass being shattered by a stray beer bottle being thrown during a past melee.

Gone are the days of the Mexican bad man clientele, having been replaced by reveling tourists and cruise ship passengers on a port of call.   To accommodate the vacationing crowd countless peddlers work the room, selling everything from flowers to cheap trinkets and jewelry.   No Mexican cantina is complete without a mariachi band, and Hussong’s does not disappoint.  For a small tip, their trio will strike up your favorite South of the Border tune.  

Keeping to its heritage, Hussong’s serves only Mexican beers.  Hard liquor and mixed drinks are also available.  For being such a tourist Mecca, drinks are very reasonable.   A bottle of beer costs $2.50 U.S. and margaritas are just slightly higher.  There isn’t a kitchen, and absolutely no food is available for purchase.  In what I see as an oversight in today’s environment of microbrews, the establishment does not have its own brand of cerveza.  Instead the cantina clings to its origins, protecting its history either out of pride or respect to the ghosts of customers past.