Belize Speaks English!

Central America provides the traveler with an astonishing array of adventure and beauty.  From breath taking vistas a top its many volcanoes, to its’ isolated beaches sandwiched between the Caribbean and Pacific Oceans.  From El Salvador to Panama, the region beckons for exploration, investigation and enjoyment

However, one problem occurs for most U.S. tourists.  That problem is the language.  Better defined,  is the lack of our ability to converse in Spanish.  This problem steals from the experience. Not only does it isolate us from the normal day to day conversations of the public, but it also adds to our frustration in everything from renting a car to ordering food.   Making the inhabitants of Central America seem alien and difficult because of our inability to communicate with them.

One country is different.  Belize.   Perched at the north east corner of Central America, the official language of Belize is English!   Once an English Colony, British Honduras became an independent nation in 1981.  The country changed its name to Belize, but maintained English as the language of choice.   The historic ties to Jamaica are heard in the rhythms and delivery of the natives’ speech.   

Belize is a small country, rectangular in shape.  One can drive from the east coast to the western border in a couple of hours.  Driving the length of the country takes longer due to the increased distance and the decreased maintenance of the highways.

As spectacular as the country is, like all nations, it’s the people that make it special.  Belize is certainly no exception.  Not only is the local population open and cheerful, but they possess a seemingly genuine interest is communicating.  At a restaurant in Belize City, my waitress not only served me, but then sat down and entered into a conversation with me over dinner.  

Another time, the man that was serving as my guide into the rain forest was as informative about local politics as he was on Howler Monkeys.  I learned of his views, his family, his childhood, etc.  In general I learned about Belize as I learned about him.  

Beside the enjoyment factor, safety also comes along with a common language.  Warnings, written and verbal take on more meaning with one can understand and realistically determine the risk.  One lunch time placard advertised a “Cow Foot” soup special.  Perhaps I may have missed out on a local culinary specialty, but by understanding what I was to be ingesting helped me make an alternative selection more to my liking.

Belize, like all of Central America is a land of great scenery and history.  Yet it alone provides the non Spanish speaking traveler the opportunity to really delve into the culture.  The culture communicated to you by, guides, waitresses, taxi drivers and more.  The past and current Belize comes alive as it is told to you by the countries most valuable commodity of all, its people.

Belize Zoo - Lions and Tigers and Bears, "Oh No!"

 

If you are looking for cages filled with animals from Africa, Asia or the Antarctica, you had better reset your course for San Diego.    However, if you find yourself in Belize I would encourage you to seek out the Belize Zoo.  It advertises itself as the “Best Little Zoo in the World”.  Whether that’s true or not, the claim is certainly not without merit.

Located just north of Belize City, the facility is easy accessible.  Housed within the confines of a rain forest, it’s easy for the visitor to feel like they are on an expedition.  The grounds span across 29 acres encased under the tropical canopy.  Well groomed dirt paths lead you to the ticket office where once a ticket is purchased you are allowed to enter into the local menagerie.

Exotic animals abound, over a 150 in total, all indigenous to Belize.    Brightly colored reptiles and amphibians are showcased along with their more camouflaged kin.   Blue frogs and red hued snakes lurk silently behind glass, while crocodiles lay almost lifeless in pools of water.  Information is given to the viewer that new species are still being discovered annually.

With 543 species of birds living in Belize the zoo only houses a small sample of its population.  For me the giant black vulture was memorable, and who can visit a jungle without thinking of the toucan.  

As for the mammals, the large cats are definitely must sees.  Ocelots to jaguars are showcased.  I learned that a black panther was just the latter with a pigmentation disorder.  Tapirs and Howler monkeys may be less dangerous, but no less exotic.  It’s quickly apparent on how close you can actually get to the animals.  Although secure, tourists’ views are not hampered by moats or other large separation obstacles.

There are several paths that you can follow, all wind and meander throughout the establishment.  It is impossible to get lost, but it is easy to pass by exhibits if you are not careful.  Maps are provided and I would strongly encourage everyone to take advantage of them. 

Although it is easy enough to view the zoo in one day, lodging is available at the park.  Three types of hospitality are offered.  The top, a single cabin priced at $84 dollars, $60 dollars will get you a mid level cabana, and for those on a budget, dormitory housing is available for just over $30 a night.

The zoo provides a glimpse into the animals and fauna that abound in Belize.  Arguments can be made for or against the morality of such establishments.  However, here in the dense jungles of Central America, it would be virtually impossible to spot even one of these secretive, illusive animals.  In its favor, the zoo provides education and exhibits on the importance of conservation.  A central theme is that if we were all more attentive and practiced better conservation methods, perhaps zoos would not be necessary.

Zonkeys – Uniquely Tijuana

Like most border towns, Tijuana is not reflective of Mexico as a whole.  It is a city full of window dressing, of hawkers and tourist attractions.  The once quaint town is a hodgepodge of immigrants and transplants drawn to the city for work and the promise of a better life.  Spurred by the anemic Mexican economy and an influx of maquidoras, it is a region that’s population has exploded in recent years and now totals over 1.7 million. What little was left of its innocence was destroyed by the recent drug cartel wars.

Add to its problems tighter security and longer wait times to re-cross the border in to the U.S. and Tijuana’s tourism industry has slowed to a trickle. 

Yet the people try.  Revolution Boulevard is sparsely populated compared to years past. Yet it is still home to great drink specials, counterfeit watches and pharmacies.  And yes, although the herd has been culled, “Mexican Zebras”.

The one constant in Tijuana tourism for the past 60 plus years are the “Zonkeys”.  From a far the striped animals do appear to be zebras.  However, in actuality they are donkeys with black stripes painted on them.  These docile animals stand along the famed boulevard for hours.   Harnessed to a wagon they wait patiently for visiting tourists to climb aboard, don brightly colored sombreros and have their picture taken.  It is as clique as any tourist attraction in the world.

No one can say for certain, but it is believed the tradition of painting the animals derived out of necessity.  Since donkeys’ hair is light colored they often looked faded in tourists’ photographs.  Until one day one of the handlers decided to add stripes to his animal.  He figured it would show up better in that Kodak moment.   One wonders if he knew what impact it would have on future generations for man and beast alike.

With the Baja turf war among cartels waning, it is anticipated tourism will increase this year.  In a city that has so much to offer it is bound to lure visitors from across the border. 

And for those striding down Revolution the zonkeys will be waiting, patient, striped and uniquely Tijuana. 

Ron Dawn a Corn Island Specialty

We first heard about Ron Dawn at the Miami International airport gift shop.  Like all secrets, it was passed to us from a most unexpected source.  As luck would have it the woman at the check out counter was from Nicaragua.  When we told her we were heading to the Corn Islands off the country’s eastern coast.  Her eye grew wide and she exclaimed, “You must try the Ron Dawn.  It is so good, do not leave without trying some”.

As our plane approached the beautiful Caribbean island all thoughts were lost on our first sign of the land’s spectacular beauty.  A sea of green rain forest floated in a turquoise ocean bordered by white sandy beaches.

Tired from the travel, we checked in at our hotel and had lunch.  No mention of Ron Dawn was on the menu.  For dinner we tried a local restaurant with the same result.  The next day we casually mentioned it to our waiter.  “Oh”, he said.  “You want the Ron Dawn”.  It was as much an accusation as it was a question.  When we answered in the affirmative he responded. “Ok, we can prepare it for you.  What time would you like it?”

He explained that the dish takes approximately 4 hours to prepare.  By this time another server appeared and joined the conversation.  When we said we would like it for dinner, she warned us against it.  The Ron Dawn is very rich she said.  You will not want to go to bed on such a full stomach.  We chose not to heed the advice and requested the dish for our evening supper.  Luckily we decided to order just one serving and split the meal.

The dish is large, more food than one person needs.  Like the island it is a collection of what Nicaragua offers all rolled up into one.  Ours came in a light coconut sauce, bordered with boiled plantains, potatoes, frangipanji, red peppers and bananas.  A top of this massive amount of starch was lobster, conk, and one whole fish, head included.  Unfortunately I found the dish to be bland.  We added chili sauce but the starchy vegetables were still too over powering.  The sauce was excellent but the coconut flavor was a mere hint as opposed to a statement.

All in all, the dish was the epitanome of the Corn Islands.  It was raw, ample and undeveloped.  For now it will remain a spoken delicacy, but as the world becomes more aware of it the recipe like the Islands will not remain a secret for long.

Toasting the Ghost of Pancho Villa!

No stop in Ensenada, Mexico is complete without a visit to Hussong’s Cantina.  It matters little whether you arrive in the city by car, bus or boat; it seems all roads will eventually lead you to this historic establishment.   Opened first in 1892, many a celebrity has walked through the doorway. Although maybe none more well known in Baja than the infamous Pancho Villa.  It is said that Hussong's was a frequent hangout for the outlaw when he was in the parts.  It was common that he and his banditos would appear seemingly out of nowhere to stop in for a night of drinking and all around merriment.  His drink of choice of course was none other than a glass of tequila with a cerveza chaser. 

Today the bar remains much the same as when it opened.  Save the much needed modern day accommodated restrooms out the rear of the bar.  (When I first visited Hussong’s 30 years ago, the male facilities were little more than a trough.)   The doors are left wide open during the day but the interior is blocked by a wooden partition.  A doorman checks ID’s as the age limit requirement of 18 is tightly enforced.  Once inside the door the décor is circa 1892.   The wooden frame building consists of one rectangular great room.  A long wooden bar runs the length of the tavern on one side, while the rest of the area is filled with tables and chairs.  Almost every inch of space on the walls is adorned with pictures or caricatures of past patrons.  Two long mirrors decorate the wall behind the serving area.  It’s easy to imagine the reflective glass being shattered by a stray beer bottle being thrown during a past melee.

Gone are the days of the Mexican bad man clientele, having been replaced by reveling tourists and cruise ship passengers on a port of call.   To accommodate the vacationing crowd countless peddlers work the room, selling everything from flowers to cheap trinkets and jewelry.   No Mexican cantina is complete without a mariachi band, and Hussong’s does not disappoint.  For a small tip, their trio will strike up your favorite South of the Border tune.  

Keeping to its heritage, Hussong’s serves only Mexican beers.  Hard liquor and mixed drinks are also available.  For being such a tourist Mecca, drinks are very reasonable.   A bottle of beer costs $2.50 U.S. and margaritas are just slightly higher.  There isn’t a kitchen, and absolutely no food is available for purchase.  In what I see as an oversight in today’s environment of microbrews, the establishment does not have its own brand of cerveza.  Instead the cantina clings to its origins, protecting its history either out of pride or respect to the ghosts of customers past.    

The Longest Rivers on Each Continent

Rivers run.  There is a sense of romance that floats by us as we stand at their shore.  They are a moving mystery making us wonder what lies beyond the next bend or further downstream.  The bigger the river, the more draw it has on us.  River cruises are becoming more and more popular to the traveling public and are operators rushing to service those desires.

Following is a list and short description of the longest river on each continent.  So whether you will be sailing, kayaking, fishing, or just dipping your toes in one of these massive rivers, you will now know a little bit more about them.

Nile River (Africa) – 6,825 km (4,238 miles).  There is some controversy but most now agree that the Nile is the lengthiest waterway in the world.  This ancient waterway goes back to the Pharaohs of Egypt.  Its source starts in Burundi, where it flows northeast to the Mediterranean Sea.  Along its travels it passes through Ethiopia, Sudan, Uganda as well as Burundi and Egypt. 

Amazon River (South America) – 6,437 km (4,000 miles).  Although no longer believed to be the longest, this waterway remains the wildest.   Bordered by thick rainforests on each shoreline much of the Amazon remains remote and unspoiled.  Teaming with piranhas and fresh water dolphins it is home to more fish species that any other river in existence.  With its source high in the Andes Mountains, the river runs east towards the Atlantic Ocean.  Even though it traverses only through Peru, Columbia and Brazil it is the single most dominating geographically area on the continent of South America.
Yangtze River (Asia) – 6,380 km (3,964 miles).  Unlike other waterways, the Yangtze is contained entirely within China.  Many tours now operate on the river and will guide you through any one of the eleven provinces it passes through.  As China becomes more industrialized the Yangtze has become more and more important to its economical and power resources.
Mississippi River (North America) – 3,612 km (2,230 miles). Our own river has a storied past.  From riverboat gamblers, to the fictitious characters of Huck Finn and Tom Sawyer the “Mighty Mississip” has enough folklore to overflow its banks.  Starting in Northern Minnesota, it flows south ending its journey in the Gulf of Mexico.  Ten different states line its shores, and all claim stake in its history and beauty.  It is fed along the way with the Missouri, Ohio and Arkansas Rivers.
Volga River (Europe) – 3,530 km (2,193 miles).  Often referred to as the Mother Volga, the longest river in Europe begins and ends in Russia. It flows from Moscow to the Caspian Sea and passes by over 40% if the country’s population that make their home near the waterway.  
Murray River (Australia) – 2,508 km (1,476 miles).  Bubbling out of the Snowy Mountains of New South Wales, the Murry picks up steam and volume as it meanders its way to its mouth at the Southern Ocean.   Along the way you will pass through parts of Victoria, New South Wales and South Australia. Paddle boats are as prevalent today as they were a century ago and have become one of the favorite ways for tourists to enjoy the river.
Onyx River (Antarctica) – 40 km (25 miles).  By far the smallest of the seven rivers, this waterway is often referred to as a melt water stream.  Only 25 miles in distance and unlike its six brethren the Onyx ends in a lake.  In fact it flows westward away from the ocean.  To date there is little more than a small research station manning its shores.

The 3 Best Reasons to Visit Bocas Del Toro, Panama

Bocas Del Toro is located in the Northeast corner of Panama.  The islands appear to be as much part of the Caribbean as they are Panamanian.  With its colorful buildings and warm tropical breezes it has a much more festive feel than the rest of the country.  Another separating factor from the mainland is the number of U.S. citizens and the common use of the English language versus the almost one hundred percent Spanish speaking population found elsewhere.

There are countless ways to enjoy the area, however the reason most people come here is as follows:

1. Surfing –
   
   without a doubt, the sport put this area on the map.  Bocas offers both reef and beach breaks.  Along with choice of bottom also comes skill level.  Although it is an annual stop over for the pro circuit, beginner waves can be found.  Most of the waves to be found that are waist high or lower are at La Punta, Paunch Reef, and Wizard Beach.  If you are an experienced surfer then you have discovered your paradise.  Waves often exceed 12 feet in the winter season that runs from November thru March.  Most breaks are accessed by water taxi.  For only a few U.S. dollars the boatmen will drop you off and pick you back up at an arranged time.
2. Snorkeling & Diving - 
   
   The abundance of reef acts as a magnet for underwater life.  The sea levels between islands is fairly shallow and allows for one to jump in almost anywhere with their face mask and flippers.  If you feel the need to go deeper, then stop in at any of the 12 dive shops in the area.  Certified instructors from all accredited disciplines are available.  New to diving?  No problem, fun dives, or open water certifications are available for those with the time and interest.
3. 
   Relaxing - If you want to slow down, then Bocas Del Toro is the spot for you.  The weather, hot and humid during the day acts as an inhibitor for anything other than water sports or lying on the beach.  Bring a book, find a hammock or beach chair, settle in and enjoy.  However, the breezy nights bring a cooling trend that allows for a rejuvenation and enticement to enjoy the evenings.  An array of restaurants lines the streets.  With limited traffic walking to any of the eating establishments can be done in less than 10 minutes.  A slew of culinary options await.  The must popular are La Casbah, Om Café and Beso del Dragon. Want to feel what it would be like to live here?  Check out the ex-pat hangout at the Rip Tide.